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Why is my fridge not cooling

Why Is My Fridge Not Cooling?

Warm milk? Soft ice cream? Here are the most common causes, simple checks you can do, and when to book a certified technician.

Technician diagnosing a refrigerator that is not cooling
Fast diagnosis helps prevent food loss and compressor damage.

Most cooling issues are caused by dirty condenser coils, blocked airflow between freezer and fridge, wrong settings (or demo/Sabbath mode), failed fans, or defrost problems causing frost build-up. Start with these quick checks.

Top Reasons Your Fridge Isn’t Cooling

1) Dirty Condenser Coils

Dusty/greasy coils can’t release heat, so temperatures rise and the compressor runs constantly.

Cleaning dusty refrigerator condenser coils with a brush and vacuum

Quick check (5–10 minutes)

  1. Unplug the fridge and pull it out carefully.
  2. Find coils (rear or bottom behind kick plate).
  3. Vacuum + brush gently; reinstall panel and plug in.

2) Blocked Air Vents / Overpacked Fridge

If boxes block vents between freezer and fridge, cold air can’t circulate.

Interior diagram showing airflow vents between freezer and fridge
  • Leave space around vents and back wall.
  • Don’t press items tight against the evaporator cover.
  • Ensure the damper door isn’t obstructed.

3) Wrong Settings or Demo/Sabbath Mode

Incorrect temperature or showroom modes can disable cooling.

Refrigerator temperature control being set correctly
  • Fridge 1–4 °C (34–39 °F); Freezer −18 °C (0 °F).
  • Use Power Cool/Freeze after large grocery loads.
  • Check manual for demo/showroom/Sabbath mode toggles.

4) Evaporator Fan Not Running

Moves cold air from the evaporator; if failed, freezer may be cold while fridge is warm.

Evaporator fan assembly illustration inside the freezer compartment
  • Listen for the fan with door switch pressed.
  • Heavy frost on the back wall suggests a defrost issue.

5) Condenser Fan Not Spinning

Near the compressor; if it stops, temps climb quickly.

Condenser fan near compressor with airflow arrow
  • Check for lint/debris blocking the blade.
  • If the fan is noisy or dead, it likely needs replacement.

6) Door Gasket Leaks

Leaky gaskets let warm, humid air in, causing long run times and poor cooling.

Close-up of refrigerator door gasket being cleaned and inspected
  • Clean and dry seals; look for tears or flat spots.
  • Paper test: if it slides out easily, replace the gasket.

When to Call a Professional

  • Thick frost/snow sheet on the freezer back wall.
  • Evaporator or condenser fan won’t run or screeches.
  • Compressor clicks repeatedly (start relay/compressor issue).
  • Temps stay high after coil cleaning and correct settings.

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A qualified technician will be dispatched and will contact you within 24 hours to confirm your appointment.

The initial fee of $175 (or $140 is booked on line) includes the first 30 minutes on-site. If the repair is completed without requiring parts, the total cost is $175 (or $140 is booked on line) plus tax. If parts and/or additional labor are required, the technician will provide an estimate before proceeding.

The $175 (or $140 is booked on line) fee plus tax is required regardless of the outcome.

We’re dedicated to getting you back up and running as quickly as possible.

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**Note : Initial Service of $175 (or $140 is booked on line) may differ depending on service request. If amount changes you will be notified before technician goes on site,

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